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Glossary

Glossary

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A

  • Androgynous is the combination of masculine and feminine characteristics.

  • Abrasion resistance is the ability for materials to remain intact against different methods of rubbing or wearing by means of friction.

B

  • Biodegradable is the ability to decompose (or break down) by bacteria or living organisms.

C

  • Carbon footprint is a measure in units of the total amount of greenhouse gases that are emitted due to human activity.

  • Cellulose fibres are fibres that originate from plants and include both natural cellulose fibres such as cotton and man-made cellulose fibres such as lyocell.

  • Certified organic is a label given to products that meet supply chain standards from an authoritative independent body like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).  

  • Circular economy is a system that is based on designing out waste, keeping materials and products in use, recapturing resources and regenerating natural systems, using renewable energy resources in order to continue building economic, natural, and social capital. It is opposite to the linear model.

  • Clothing banks are garment recycling collection stations put up in a community, often by a charitable organisation, where consumers can recycle their used clothing. 

  • Clothing drives are events where unwanted clothing is collected and often given to charity or sold to raise funds for charity. 

  • Clothing samples are part-finished or finished clothing samples from the design and production of clothing.

  • Closed loop design is a system that aims to keep products in circulation for as long as possible. Materials and components should use minimal energy, resources, and water at every stage of their lifecycle.

  • CO2 emissions are the amount of carbon dioxide (CO2) released into the atmosphere primarily from the use of fossil fuels by human activity, such as using petrol in vehicles.

  • Code of Conduct is a set of rules outlining an organisation’s compliance in relation to human rights, labour law, environmental regulations, ethical issues and anti-corruption.

  • Colour fastness is a measurement of how resistant materials, typically textiles, are to colour running in exposure to liquid or fading in exposure to light sources.

  • Conventionally grown is the term given to methods of growing which include using genetically modified seeds as well as synthetic chemicals, which include insecticides, pesticides, hormones, and fertilisers (sometimes also referred to as traditionally or commercially grown).

  • Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is a voluntary initiative by companies to reduce the negative social and environmental impacts of their businesses in order to behave ethically and to contribute positively to society and the environment.

  • Cradle-to-cradle is a closed loop design process that is free of waste. When a product is no longer useful, it becomes material for another product. 

  • Cut-and-sew waste are excess textile scraps from the cutting and sewing phase of garment manufacturing. They are often discarded due to their uneven and small shapes.

D

  • Damaged textiles are unfinished textile products that have been damaged, for example with colour or print defects. 

  • Downcycling is the recycling of something into a material with a lower value or quality than the original item.

E

  • E-commerce is the buying and selling of goods and/or services through the internet.

  • Eco is a prefix for ecology and usually refers to ecological concerns or benefits. 

  • Eco-chic is something that is environmentally conscious as well as stylish.

  • Eco-labeling are environmental claims made on a product or through advertising using certifications, standards, logos, symbols, or bold sustainability vocabulary. 

  • Ecosystem is a biological community of interacting organisms and their physical environment.

  • Ecotoxicity refers to the possibility for biological or chemical stimuli to affect an ecosystem.

  • End-of-rolls are factory surplus textiles that have been left over from garment manufacturing. 

  • Eutrophication is the uncontrolled amount of nutrients in a body of water caused by land run-off, which results in a dense growth of vegetation, typically algae.

F

  • Fast fashion is a term that refers to low-cost, low-quality clothing that has been rapidly produced to replicate catwalk trends.

  • Fibre cultivation is the action of farming land for crops that are used as fibres for textiles.

G

  • Genetically modified (GM) refers to organisms in which the DNA has been changed through genetic engineering. In fibre production, this is most often done to create changes which ensure greater success for the crop, for example increased pesticide resistance or improved crop yields.

  • Greenhouse effect is the trapping of the sun’s warmth in a planet’s lower atmosphere due to the presence of gases (greenhouse gases), such as carbon dioxide, methane and water vapour, which allows incoming sunlight to pass through them but also absorbs heat radiated back from the earth’s surface. 

  • Greenhouse gas is a type of gas in the atmosphere that absorbs infrared radiation and traps heat inside the atmosphere, thereby contributing to the greenhouse effect. They exist naturally but are multiplied through human activity with emissions such as carbon dioxide and methane.

  • Greenwashing is a term given to misleading, exaggerated, or untrue claims about a product’s environmental benefits that are shared with consumers in a company’s communications. 

H

  • Human toxicity is the potential harm to humans due to a chemical release in the environment.

I

  • Integrated pest management (IPM) is an environmental approach that focuses on long-term prevention of pests by integrating biological control, habitat manipulation, and modification of cultural practices. Pesticides are used only after monitoring finds that pests exceed acceptable levels based on established guidelines.

L

  • Lanolin is the grease from sheep wool. It is removed during the scouring (cleaning) process, and then used in the beauty industry as a softening agent. 

  • Linear model refers to a take, make and dispose model of production and consumption that is widely practised in fashion.

  • Life Cycle Assessment is a methodology aimed to measure energy and material inputs and outputs, and the associated environmental impacts of a product or service system throughout its lifecycle.

  • Longevity is the timespan in which the item remains relevant and useful. When referring to garments, longevity includes both the physical and psychological factors which are involved in creating extended usage.

  • Lyocell is a man-made cellulose fibre created from cellulose pulp (most commonly eucalyptus wood, but can also be bamboo). Up to 99.8% of the chemicals used in its creation can be recovered for reuse, enabling a closed loop system. TENCEL™ is the most commonly recognised producer of lyocell and is made from sustainably managed forests, certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification.

M

  • Microfibre is a fibre finer than one denier or decitex/thread, having a diameter of less than ten micrometres.

P

  • Pesticides are chemical or biological agents used to kill or destroy any type of pests or insects. In the fashion industry, conventionally grown cotton uses various pesticides, which have damaging effects to humans and wildlife. 

  • Physical durability is the ability to resist physical and chemical deterioration from the environment in which the item is used.

  • Post-consumer waste is waste collected after the consumer has disposed of it. 

  • Pre-consumer waste is manufacturing waste that has not reached the consumer. 

  • Protein fibres are fibres that come from animals which include silk, wool, alpaca, and hemp.

  • Pulp is a soft, wet mass made from plant fibres and water, most commonly used for making regenerated cellulose fibres.

R

  • Rayon is a man-made cellulose fibre similar to viscose which is created using the viscose process, but can be made from the pulp of many different plants.

  • Recycling is when a waste material or product has been reused and turned into a new usable material or product. 

  • Recyclable describes a material that can be reused by turning it into a new usable material or product.

  • Reconstruction is a form of upcycling and is the process of making new clothes from waste formed of previously made garments or preformed products. This process involves first deconstructing garments and then reconstructing the waste materials into new designs.

  • Reduce, reuse, recycle are the so-called 3Rs that classify waste management according to their order of importance. Reduce consumption and usage, reuse items again where possible, and recycle materials at the end of their lives. 

  • Regenerative Agriculture is a form of farming (food or fibre) that has little or no interference from the farmer besides crop rotation. Nature is allowed to take its course below and above the ground without fertiliser or sprays. 

  • Regenerated cellulose fibre is created by dissolving the cellulose portion of the plant using chemicals to create a fibre for textiles, as the original plant is not supple enough. Examples include viscose, rayon, and lyocell.

  • Responsible consumerism is choosing to purchase products and services that take into account their social and environmental impacts.

  • Retting is the action of soaking plant materials (such as coconuts and hemp) in water to soften them.

S

  • Sampling yardages are factory surplus sample textiles left over from sample manufacturing.

  • Secondhand is a product that is acquired after it has been used by someone else and is not new.

  • Secondhand textiles are any finished non-clothing textiles (such as curtains, bedding, etc) that have been owned and then discarded by consumers (both used and unused).  

  • Secondhand clothing and secondhand textiles are clothing, fashion accessories, and textiles that have been used and discarded by consumers. 

  • Supply chain is the process of moving a product from raw material extraction to consumer.

  • Sustainable fashion is clothing that is produced with respect for the environment and social impacts throughout its lifecycle. 

  • Sustainable textile is a fibre or material that is produced with minimal environmental impact. 

  • Sustainability is a lasting system and process that meets the current population’s needs while preserving for the future.

  • Swap/Swish is the free exchange of garments between people. It is a form of direct recycling through swapping of unwanted garments. 

  • SWOT analysis is a method to evaluate strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of a business or project.

  • Solvent is a liquid in which solid materials will dissolve.

  • Synthetic fibre is fibre which is man-made from non-cellulose based matter. Examples include polyester and acrylic.

T

  • Takeback is a term used by companies collecting unwanted or used items from their customers.

  • Textile recycling is reusing or reprocessing used clothing, fabric, yarn, and/or textile scraps from the manufacturing process.

  • Textile swatches are leftover textile sample swatches from the production process. 

  • Textile waste is the by-product from the manufacturing of textiles (garments, fabrics, yarns, or fibres) deemed unusable for its original purpose by the owner. 

  • Transitional organic/organic in-conversion is a process of changing from a traditional or conventional method to an organic method of production. Depending on the product, the requirements of the authoritative body will vary as to when the product can be confirmed as certified organic — often taking years.

  • Transparent business is being completely open and honest about your business practices. 

  • Triple bottom line is a term that refers to ‘people, planet, profit’ being considered beyond their financial outcomes. 

U

  • Unsold clothing waste is clothing (finished or unfinished) that has not been sold.

  • Upcycling is the recycling of an unused material into a product of equal or higher quality. 

V

  • Viscose is a man-made cellulose fibre made from the pulp of wood or bamboo and chemically processed to create a new polymer. Viscose is traditionally made in a chemical process which requires significant amounts of water, and the chemicals used in its production cannot be recovered for reuse.

Z

  • Zero-waste is a design technique that eliminates textile waste at the design stage.