tonlé
CASE STUDY
Created by Redress, 2019
tonlé
One of the biggest challenges with starting up a brand is building a sustainable supply chain to support it. Rachel Faller graduated with a degree in Fibre and Textiles, but it was a trip to Cambodia that revealed to her the struggles of garment production. On one side of the spectrum are the large scale manufacturers involved in exploitation while producing for the world’s fast fashion markets, while on the other end, small craft groups struggle with scale and market access.
More than a decade after that trip, tonlé was founded as a platform that brings together brands, designers, makers, manufacturers, funders, and innovators who are collaboratively building a new circular fashion economy.
In this case study, we ask tonlé founder, Rachel Faller, about the biggest challenges, successes, and top tips for building a circular fashion business.
Image Credit: tonlé
Why is sustainability important to your company?
Sustainability is a core part of our fashion brand. We started as a social enterprise, but we believe that social responsibility and high environmental standards go hand in hand; you can’t have one without the other. Since the company’s founding, we have tried to find the most environmentally sustainable materials, which are, for the most part, remnant fabrics from garment factories.
How is sustainability integrated into your business?
Sustainability is part of the thought process behind every step of the supply chain at tonlé. From sourcing materials that are either recycled or sustainably made here in Cambodia, to minimising waste through a unique, zero-waste design process, using water-based inks and dyes, and packaging our products in recycled materials, we consider the impact on the environment at every step and do our part to reduce environmental harm.
What were your biggest challenges in implementing sustainable business practices?
Creating a different process for production has been a challenge, as people — both customers and staff — are so used to the way things have always been done in the garment manufacturing industry, even though they have played a large role in the world’s most severe environmental issues. We’ve had to spend a huge amount of time developing our processes to create new, better ways of production, as well as training each of our production staff regarding these processes, which can seem pretty strange to them at first. For example, getting the staff not to throw away any scrap of fabric, no matter how small, has not been easy. But after they understand why we do what we do, they get pretty excited about it as well.
What has been your most successful sustainability initiative?
One thing that makes us unique is our zero-waste design and production process. We not only use waste fabrics from nearby garment factories, but also utilise every single scrap of our own waste to create each collection. We do this by cutting the fabric into small strips, categorising them by colour and type, and then using them in a variety of innovative designs. After we’ve used these strips, even smaller pieces are woven and knitted into new pieces. And finally, with the remaining tiny shreds of fabric and thread, we mix them with used paper from our office and cutting room. This means we make zero waste in our production process, something that most factories, which can waste up to 40% of their raw materials, would consider impossible. But it’s not!
Image credit: tonlé
Image credit: tonlé
Do you share your sustainability values with your stakeholders? If so, how?
Yes, we do so through our transparent and open marketing and social media. We want our customers, as well as our production team, to be connected through our marketing. We are an open book and we welcome any and all questions and inquiries.
What is your top tip for starting a sustainable business?
Stick to your principles and don’t be afraid to ask for help. There are lots of people out there who want to contribute to something good, and having a strong network of mentors around you is one of the most important parts of getting a good business going — and keeping it running! Starting a business is easy compared to running a successful business. Build your business to last; at the end of the day, this is the true measure of its sustainability.
Image credit: tonlé Open Closet
Accelerating their circular business model and underpinning longevity, tonlé created Open Closet, a trading and resale platform for pre-loved tonlé garments. Each piece is carefully cleaned, repaired, and reimagined if needed. Open Closet is a way to extend the life of those finished garments, preventing them from ending up in a landfill.
Image credit: tonlé x Global Mamas
Image credit: tonlé x Global Mamas
As a sustainable fashion designer, your priority should not only be towards the clothing you design, but also for the social responsibility throughout the entire design and production process. Tonlé collaborates with Global Mamas, a member of the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) operating in Ghana since 2003. The partnership creates opportunities to grow the Ghanaian community by equipping people with practical skills and wellbeing to start their own businesses. By creating all of their own raw materials and products, this integrated supply chain can generate additional income for Ghanaian families.
Image credit: the Plant Kween x tonlé
The Plant Kween x tonlé Summer 2022 Collection brings together not only a love of fashion, fun, and zero-waste techniques — it also disrupts the notion of binary genders by offering styles that fit your self-expression and joy, designed to fit a range of bodies.
Then again with Cami + Ren x tonlé 2021 Holiday Collection for fashion that fits all sizes and genders.
Image credit: Cami + Ren x tonlé
As Rachel Faller says, building a circular fashion business can be challenging. But what tonlé has built is more than just a sustainable clothing brand — it is a sense of purpose. Do you consider your community? Do you think it is important to limit your designs to one gender and size range, or is there more you could offer? Tonlé is a wonderful example of how important it is to design with integrity. Who and how can you influence, so that together you drive better practices that reduce negative impact on the environment?
You can learn more about the importance of knowing what your materials are made of and sourcing more sustainably in our course module on ‘Fibre Choices and Sustainability’ here.